Tastes of Chocolate: Michel Cluizel Tamarina 70% Sao Tome cacao

Friday, April 27, 2007

Michel Cluizel Tamarina 70% Sao Tome cacao - Made in Paris

This is one of the best chocolates I have tasted. It is creamy, has an even velvety melt. It is definitely the best chocolate that I have tasted from the Sao Tome region. It has a fruity taste with a licorice aftertaste. Overall a great chocolate.

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THE ART OF CHOCOLATE MAKING

The origin of the Cacao Tree The cacao tree is a tropical evergreen plant and was christened Theobroma Cacao during the eighteenth century by the Swedish botanist, Linnaeus. Theobroma Cacao means 'the food of the gods' from the Greek 'theos' meaning 'god' and 'broma' meaning 'food', reflecting the reverence chocolate has. The Harvest The tree bears fruit in the form of bright red, green, purple or yellow pods, that change colour as they ripen. The pods are harvested from May to December and are cut using long-handled, curved steel knives, because the trees are too frail to climb. Fermentation This is the first stage of flavour development. The beans and their surrounding layer of pulp are taken out of the pods and covered in banana leaves. After 3-9 days they have turned a dark brown colour and give off a wonderful cocoa smell. The beans are then dried and graded. Roasting The cocoa beans are then roasted, which further develops the flavours and aromas and enriches the colour. Milder varieties of bean tend to be roasted at lower temperatures than stronger varieties. Winnowing The beans pass through a machine, which cracks them open and separates the husks from the 'nibs' (the centre of the bean). Grinding & Mixing The winnowed beans are ground, which refines the cocoa particles, releasing the cocoa butter and the cocoa mass (a liquid pulp). Both these, plus other basic ingredients such as sugar and milk powder, are mixed and kneaded. Further grinding between steel rollers reduces the particle size even more. To ensure chocolate melts in the mouth and is of high quality, it should contain a high percentage of cocoa butter. Using pure cocoa butter causes chocolate to melt at body temperature, unlike chocolate made with a percentage of cheaper vegetable fat. Conching This refining process removes 'volatile' components (unwanted flavours and aromas). The liquid chocolate is constantly agitated and heat-treated, and flavours are added. By the end of this process the chocolate has developed it's full flavour and characteristic velvety smoothness. Tempering The liquid chocolate is cooled from 45*C to approximately 28*C, then heated again to 30*C. This is a critical stage which, when done correctly, delivers the perfect structure of cocoa butter crystals, resulting in chocolate having a high gloss finish and a sharp 'snap' when broken.

Tastes of Chocolate

Friday, April 27, 2007

Michel Cluizel Tamarina 70% Sao Tome cacao - Made in Paris

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